Posted on Feb 26, 2009 under Tips.. |

Keen began designing shoes and sandals for the great outdoors in 2003 with their Newport hybrid sandal/hiking shoe. It may have taken them five years, but Keen has expanded their ever-growing line with their first cycling-specific sandal, the $115 Commuter.
Features: The Commuter sandals feature a full-length SPD compatible plate and a thermoplastic urethane cleat tap plate. Polypropylene webbing uppers are lined with hydrophobic foam. Linings are treated with AEGIS Microbe Shield for resistance to odors created from bacterial growth. Strap uppers are laced with elastic cord and secure with quicklocks. Up front you have patented toe guards. Removable EVA footbeds also get the AEGIS Microbe Shield anti-odor treatment. Our size 10 sandals weighed one pound with SPD cleat and hardware (14.5 ounces without the cleats). You can reach Keen at: www.keenfootwear.com or (800) 509-5336.
MBA Rating: * (for serious riding), *** (for casual riding) It’s no wonder why Keen is so popular with active outdoor types. The Commuter feels great worn with or without socks. The lace snugs the Commuter without causing unwanted pressure points. Our sandals would dry minutes after each water crossing. The sole design did not interfere with cleat step-in or release. The sole is plenty pliable for hiking or casual use. It is not firm enough for pushing the big gears or during hard efforts on climbs. We suggest that you reduce the retention power of your clipless pedals before using the Commuter because the upper is flexible and this flex makes cleat release from the pedal a more deliberate procedure than when wearing a regular cycling shoe. Finally, riders in the west know that cactus needles have little trouble penetrating a cycling shoe with a solid upper. The Commuter gives these needles (and other trail foliage) direct access to your feet. We would limit Commuter use to casual rides on trails that are well maintained.
Thrash test rating:
***** Perfection
**** Delivers above average value and performance
*** Recommended for intended application
** Shows potential but has drawbacks
* Save your hard-earned bucks
Posted on Feb 22, 2009 under Jamboree |
Salam kembali…dah kat dua minggu aku tak kayuh…sebab kena p kuantan(kerja)..jadi masa kat kuantan lagi aku dah kontek pon t.gelugor ahad ni nak kayuh mana…jadi inilah tempat dia…Bukit Langkap Part I..ada Part II plak…nak tengok kena tunggu la…

Tu Mie dari Padang Serai..aku baru kenal dia ari ni..

Seronok sebab dah tukar rantai baru..

Duk termenung apa tu man…


Posing sat..
Posing lagi..
Cannondale aku pun nak posing jugak..
Permandangan dari puncak Bukit Langkap…tu penang kot…


Mengkuang Dam dari atas…


Man mengdownhillkan dirinya…caya la bro…

Downhill lagi..
Take 5 jap…amik oksigen…


Fuhhh…bergaya tui…
Tunduk lagi pon..caya la..
Mie sempat lagi tersenyum riang…
Uphill plak…


Kita minum duluuuuu…..
Man menunjukkan cara-cara mengatasi atau merawat mangsa yang terkena ‘cram’…dalam sesi latihan ni..pon telah memvolunteer kan diri untuk menjadi bahan ujikaji…
Dengan gahnya pokke(iguana liar) ini menayangkan dirinya dihadapan lensa…tau je orang nak amik gambar dia..
Posing lagi…

Eh..mie hang buat pe tu…

Cintailah Sungai Kita…

Dah abis dah..balik le…!!ari ni kami kayuh sejauh 36 km…trek memang best…
To Be Continued…..
Posted on Feb 19, 2009 under Tips.. |
Okay, chow down on that bean-and-cheese burrito and head out to the garage. We know you put in a long day, so let’s keep this one simple. We are going to run through your bike’s drivetrain.

1 Spin it: Clamp your bike to a bike stand, hook it to a low-hanging branch or flip it upside down. (A last resort, because it is difficult to shift the bike in this position, if you have air in your hydraulic brakes the bubbles might go where they will diminish braking performance, and finally, you’re going to scrape your grips or shifters and saddle.) You want to be able to spin the cranks and have the chain and rear wheel rotate easily. We are also assuming that you followed our advice about adjusting your derailleurs (“Garage Files” February, 2008) and the bike was shifting properly on your last ride. Clean up the chain, chainrings and cassette using a toilet brush (gets in the nooks and crannies better than anything actually made for the job).

2 Eyeball truing: Imagine looking down the drivetrain like you would look down the iron sights of a shotgun. The rear sight is where the chain leaves the cassette and the front sight is where the chainring picks up the chain. Run the bike through all its gears while sighting down the drivetrain in this manner. You are watching for wobbles or chain jumping.

3 Rear clear: If the chain is doing a little dance off the cassette, don’t rush out and buy a new cassette (or pack of cogs). First, take a thin screwdriver and clean out anything that might be packed in between the cogs. Nine-speed cassettes are notorious for being thrown off track by fairly small amounts of dirt or foliage.

4 All work, no play: It is unlikely that your cogs are loose, because you would have heard a jangling sound while riding. If they are loose, you need to snug the cassette lockring with a lockring tool. Pull the wheel off. Slip the lockring tool into the lockring and snug it up.

5 Easy fix: If there is a wobble where the chain contacts the chainring, check the mounting hardware to make sure it is all tight. If everything is tight and it still wobbles, there is a good chance that the rock you pegged (or riding with the hardware loose) bent the chainring (90 percent of the time it will be your big ring). We’ve seen riders true a chainring using a rock, but this was to get out of the woods. If it is bent enough that you see it wobble or that it rubs on a perfectly adjusted derailleur, the chainring needs to be replaced.


6 Chain wear: Measure a one-foot length of your chain, placing an inch mark of the tape measure in the middle of one rivet. Look at the corresponding rivet 12 links away. On a new chain, this rivet will line up exactly with the six-inch mark.

7 Replace time: With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark. If the rivet is less than 1/16-inch past the mark, all is well. If the rivet is 1/16-inch past the mark, you should replace the chain (and you probably don’t have to worry about replacing even the most commonly used cogs).

8 Repair it: If the rivet is 1/8-inch past the mark, you pushed the chain past its life span and some of the cogs (the favorite ones) will be badly worn. If you replace a chain that has gone past the 1/8-inch mark, without replacing the sprockets, it may shift fine and not skip under power, but the worn sprockets will cause your new chain to wear faster than it should. Use your best judgment.

9 Final drivetrain tip: If you do replace any component, don’t immediately head out for a long ride. Do a short test ride, including a significant hill, to make sure that the new parts are compatible with the old parts. You’ll know if there is a problem if the chain skips under maximum efforts.
Posted on Feb 18, 2009 under Jalan-Jalan... |

Ah Sun Motor..tapi ada jual beskal…pelik tapi benar..dah seminggu aku stay kat kuantan ni..bukan p bercuti…p keje..aku kena detachment selama dua minggu di kuantan…yang datang kuantan..aku dengan bob je..memang sebelum p kuantan kami dah target nak cari kedai MTB kat kuantan..tanya punya tanya kat member yang main MTB..lepa suggest kat kami kedai AH Sun ni..lepa cakap kat kuantan ni barang MTB mahal-mahal…memang btui pun..mai boleh tengok jela..

Ni lah rupa tauke kedai Ah Sun ni…sibuk tengah pasang roadbike..buat-buat sibuk la konon..

Antara frame-frame yang ada di kedai Ah Sun nih…tu la aku habaq..lepa kat sini layan DH jer..frame hardtail ada la dalam dua biji..

Boleh tahan la jugak barang-barang kat kedai nih…

Rasa macam nak main Dh la plak bila tengok beskal-beskal kat kedai nih…
Posted on Feb 17, 2009 under Event |

TARIKH : 8 MARCH 2009
TREK : 50 KM
TEMPAT : KHTP BUSINESS CENTRE, KULIM HI-TECH PARK, KULIM
MASA : 7.30AM (kayuhan start)
YURAN : RM 50.00 (klik di gambar untuk mengisi borang penyertaan)